The field of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for all. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding surpasses grip, more power does not always mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one up to see what each of the hoopla was with this drifter.

Instantly

WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any measure of drift enthusiast

PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD

Simply How Much: $115.00

BUILD TYPE: Kit

PROS

• AWD for simple learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning before the motor or on the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric

CONS

• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing

REVIEWER’S OPINION

This drifter has considerably selecting it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very economical price. Handling is useful too when you become accustomed to the kit setup, and yes it accepts a really wide variety of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for people who like to tinker, which means this car should grow along for your skills do.

FEATURE BREAKDOWN

The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts on the bottom for that front and back diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these can be used as mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually several left empty. They could be used to control chassis flex, however, not with all the stock top deck; an optional you have to be found. The layout is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easy to access and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.

? Besides a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll as the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.

? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious amount of steering throw they have got. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as next to the edges in the chassis as is possible. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to take care of the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I want it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit utilizing a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.

? To offer the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, however i do remember a technique I used quite some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white about the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the surface by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!

About The TRACK

For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to complete a photograph shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and obtain some sideways action?

STEERING

The steering around the D4 is pretty amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Even CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look just a little funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the correct direction. This is certainly, partly, on account of the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.

ACCELERATION/BRAKING

Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do just that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to modify the angle in the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Increase the throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is designed for just that. I did so need to be a little creative with all the install of the system on account of limited space on the chassis, but overall it determined great.

HANDLING

After driving hooked up touring cars for a time, it will have a little getting used to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the correct way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control once you have it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at below 2 or 3 inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, as well as the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is good, but if you believe as if you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of points to adjust. I actually enjoyed the auto using the kit setup plus it was just dependent on a battery pack or two before I was swinging the rear throughout the hairpins, round the carousel and forward and backward through the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.

DURABILITY

There’s not a whole lot that can be done to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I did so, however, have an problem with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept from it, seeking to overcome the situation with driving, but soon were required to RPM Team losi parts it in to actually take a look. Throughout the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be backed up by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.